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Some Short Stories About Pastries
Saint-Honoré
I love making the past wonderfully present. Offering a journey back in time, just like with the Saint Honoré, which owes its name to the patron saint of bakers and pastry chefs. Originally, it was the creation of the young pastry chef of the Chiboust house, Auguste Jullien, who first designed it as a large brioche filled with pastry cream. Falling into obsolescence at the end of the 19th century, the Saint Honoré is today one of the most adored pastries in the world.
Rum Baba
I have always loved the story of the Baba. This cake takes me back to my Lorraine roots, to Place Stanislas, built in homage to the King of Poland, Stanislas. Did you know that he is the godfather of this delicious dessert? During his exile in Alsace, as he aged, he found his cake's dough a bit tough to chew, his lady-in-waiting whom he called Baba, (or Babcia, which means grandmother in Polish), had the lovely idea of soaking his cake in Malaga wine. Little did they realize that they had just invented one of the most popular pastries in the world! Served with a light whipped cream, it's a royal dessert.
Mille-feuille
Traditionally, the mille-feuille is filled with vanilla custard and flavored with rum, today replaced by a mille-feuille cream; a custard made lighter by the addition of a third of its weight in whipped cream. The first recipe signed by a certain Rouget was published in 1806. Long kept a secret, it was only sixty years later that the Seugnot pastry shop offered it in its store. It was a success. The shop, located on Rue du Bac in Paris, sold hundreds of them and the mille-feuille finally found its audience.
Duchess chocolate, vanilla, coffee
It’s the ancestor of the éclair. But you might know, I take fierce pleasure in renaming pastries by their original names. Created in Lyon around 1850, éclairs were formerly called "duchess bread" or "little duchesses". This choux pastry, stretched into a finger shape and rolled in almonds, was reinvented in the 19th century by Carême, "the king of chefs and the chef of kings". Carême removed the almonds, stuffing the pastry with chocolate or coffee crème pâtissière.